Residents of Wicker Park might remember crazy La Cumbamba, where if you told your waiter (also the owner, also the cook) that you didn't order shrimp, he'd grab it off your plate, pop it in his mouth and say, "There! No Shrimp." For better or worse, that place is now Handlebar, a vegetarian/vegan/pescetarian nerve center for bicyclists (and a handful of neighborhood folk).

Besides one brick wall decorated with the Columbian artifacts of its predecessor, the mellow, multicolored space is strewn with T-shirts emblazoned with cycling events, photos of cyclists and advertisements for activist activities, such as Critical Mass (that barrage of bikers that descends on Daley Plaza once a month).

Menu items are an amalgamation of recipes from the friends and families of the restaurant's four co- owners, including novelties like the West African Nut Stew (sweet potatoes, coconut milk and zucchini over brown rice), topped with peanuts and toasted coconut). Other items include the BBQ Seitan Sandwich, Bicycle Wheel Pesto and Fish Tacos.

"We don't have a high profile star chef," admits partner Josh Deth, but then again the most expensive entre is only $10, and for a light snack and brunch, it's pretty good—and healthy. The best part is, this summer, Handlebar will open a beer garden out back. And, with Deth being a veteran microbrewer, you can count on him peddling some mighty fine brews.